Rosé

White Wines to Seek Out in 2017 – Part 1

fnfu6rw5_400x400Do you always order a glass of Pinot Grigio when you’re out to dinner with friends?  Do you consistently buy the same brand of Sauvignon Blanc at your local wine or grocery store because you know you like it?  If you answered yes to either of those questions, congratulations!  You are a human, a well-documented creature of habit.  For those who would like to get out of their wine rut and have a little fun exploring new varieties, here are a few wines that I suggest you seek out in 2017.

Oregon Chardonnay

You’ve probably tried Oregon Pinot Noir, which has been a darling of the red wine world for a couple of years now.  Given the amount of attention it receives and the fact that it is the most widely planted grape in Oregon, you might not realize that you have other options in the state that is home to Mt. Hood, Nike HQ, and a the world’s largest cheese factory, but in fact many other grapes are grown in Oregon and most of them are white.  I’m recommending Chardonnay for two reasons:  1) It is a grape everyone is familiar with and the one that will be the easiest to find in markets that are far from the Northwest; and 2) I feel like I’ve been tasting an Oregon Chardonnay renaissance lately.  As if winemakers finally stopped focusing all of their attention on the red darling and gave a little love to this variety, with excellent results.

The 2014 Roserock Chardonnay was easily one of my favorite surprises of the countless wines I tasted last year.  Roserock is a new label from Domaine Drouhin, which has been making wine in Willamette Valley for three decades.  If you drink California Chardonnays, you’ll find the ones from Oregon to be brighter, fresher takes on the variety and this wine is no exception.  For a bottle priced in the low $30s (not inexpensive, but in far more reasonable than the ocean of Chardonnay from California and France on offer at $50+), I enjoyed a lot of complex flavors and aromas:  Meyer lemon, pineapple, white flowers, saline – in addition to a lovely, silky texture and a long finish.  Roserock is new and 2014 was the first release.  If you have trouble finding it, try its sibling the Domaine Drouhin “Arthur” Chardonnay instead (around $30).

Pink Bubbles

If you have Champagne taste on a microbrew budget, you’re in luck because there are plenty of high-quality, reasonably priced sparkling wines made around the world these days.  Since still rosé has exploded in popularity over the last few years, I’m hoping a little of the fairy dust from that trend will rub off on sparkling rosé in 2017.  Why?  Because you’re missing out if you’re only drinking bubbles on special occasions.  And, pink bubbles are just more fun.

My pick in this category is a wine from the Penedès region of Spain, not too far from Barcelona, called Raventós i Blanc “di Nit” Rosé Conca del Riu Anoia (just ask for Raventós Rosé to simplify things).  This is a blend of three white grapes, Macabeu, Xarel-lo, and Parellada, and a small amount of one red called Monastrell from which the wine derives its pink color.  I can say from experience that I’ve shared this bottle at multiple dinners with different groups of friends and it has been a hit with all of them.  It’s a sophisticated sparkler that makes a lively aperitif or dinner companion, and it’s certified organic – and delicious (around $20).

White Bordeaux

White Bordeaux has issues.  For one, it’s overshadowed in reputation, volume, asking price, and prestige by the more famous reds of Bordeaux, and secondly because it hasn’t figured out how to sell itself.  Labels on its bottles are often nondescript and they don’t typically advertise the name of the grape variety(ies), leading many wine buyers to pass by without a second glance.  Bad for them but great for you because wines with such issues can be great values, which is exactly why white Bordeaux is on this list.  If you decide to take a chance on it, what exactly are you getting yourself into?  Sauvignon Blanc primarily, sometimes blended with a little bit of a grape called Semillon for additional weight and viscosity.  If you enjoy Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, California, or Sancerre, I encourage you to seek out a white Bordeaux or two this year and see what you think.

Because they are something of wine wallflowers, there are lots of excellent white Bordeaux options under $20, under $15, and even some very good bottles under $10. Look for the Sauvignon Blanc-driven Chateau Reynon (around $15) with its crisp, green apple-y character or, if you prefer a richer style, the 50/50 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend Chateau Chantegrive Graves (around $18), which shows stone fruit and honeysuckle. Because this is not a popular category, you may have trouble finding a lot of options in your city.  My advice:  give something in the $10 – $20 range that is recommended by your local wine shop a shot for your first go-round.

I’ve got additional, more adventurous wines to for you to seek out in 2017 in part two of this post coming soon.  If you have trouble finding any of the wines I’ve suggested in your area, please post in the comments or email me and I’ll be happy to help you with alternatives.  Cheers to new discoveries!

 

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The Brangelina Divorce – Who Gets Custody of the Rosé?

As the whole world is aware, Angelina Jolie filed for divorce from Brad Pitt just over a week ago.  There are many questions surrounding the split – Why did she file?  Who will get custody of the six kids?  Is she really blocking his calls and texts?  What went down on the private jet flying the family back from France on September 14?  Enquiring minds want to know, and I’ve been frittering away more minutes than I care to tally up Googling the answers (or the gossip as it were) to all of the above over the past week.  However, the demise of Brangelina brings up one other important question:  What will become of Miraval rosé?  

Brad and Angie purchased Chateau Miraval in Provence, France in 2012 for a reported $60 million.  The property boasts a 35-room main house, a moat, a chapel where they married in 2014, and vineyards.  Being involved in movies and humanitarian efforts while raising six children doesn’t leave much time for other pursuits, so the couple brought on the Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel fame to produce wine from their vines.   On Valentine’s Day 2013 the first vintage of Miraval rosé was released to great effect.  The entire production of 6,000 bottles sold out in five hours.

By the time the innaugural Miraval rosé was released, we were well into a decade of steadily increasing pink wine sales in the U.S. thanks in large part to the allure of Provence and our insatiable appetite for celebrity culture.  Provence, the birthplace of rosé wine, is also home to the yacht-filled waters of St. Tropez and the Cannes film festival; it is where Grace Kelly drove Cary Grant in a sapphire blue convertible in To Catch a Thief.  It is undeniably glittering and gorgeous, something it has in common with celebrities themselves.  So it’s no wonder that Brangelina and so many others of their ilk have thrown their lot in with rosé – Provençal or otherwise –  in recent years.  This glamorous coupling has made rosé synonymous with the good life and has had the effect of making its popularity among wine drinkers skyrocket.

I, for one, couldn’t be happier about the celebrity/rosé pairing.  When I first started working in a wine shop in the mid-aughts, we couldn’t give rosé away.  The stigma of white Zinfandel was too fresh and customers routinely and disdainfully rebuffed any and all pink wine recommendations.  At that time, pink was irrevocably linked to ‘sweet’ in most people’s minds.  Forget trying to convince them that most rosés were dry, we couldn’t even convince them to try free samples!  And, as a result the wines languished on the shelf.  Only the employees took them home and drank them with reverence and joy while fervently wishing they could convince customers to do the same.  Now, a little more than 10 years later, rosé is quite possibly the hottest wine trend in the world, and we have celebrity endorsement to thank for it.

As to who will get custody of Miraval’s rosé, we’ll just have to wait and see.  One thing’s for certain however, rose is ascendant by every conceivable measure, and no celebrity breakup is going to put the brakes on that.

 

Nine Reasons to Drink White Wine

They say Cabernet is King, but I don’t believe them.  Here are nine reasons why you should drink more white wine.

Diversity

For the purposes of this post (and this blog), the term “white wine” includes not just your everyday Chardonnay but also rosé, orange, almost all sparkling, Sherry, Madeira, most Sake, and any dessert wine that is not red.  Basically any wine you serve chilled as you would a regular table white counts.  White wines run the gamut from crisp and fresh, to full-bodied and buttery, to off-dry, to sweet, to aromatic and floral, to nutty, and everything in between.  There’s virtually no chance that there isn’t something here for everyone to love.

Refreshment

Sometimes you just want something refreshing, whether that’s due to the time of year, the meal you’re planning, or because it’s simply what you’re craving.  When is the last time you described a Syrah (or most any red for that matter) as refreshing?  Refreshment is white wine’s wheelhouse.

Diet

Are you a vegetarian?  Pescatarian?  Vegan?  Trying to incorporate more plant-based meals into your diet?  Maybe you’re just eating less red meat lately?  If any of these is true, you’ll find far better pairing options for what you’re eating now in the white wine family.

Acidity

Speaking of pairing options, there’s a reason sommeliers love Riesling, Chenin Blanc, a multitude of Italian whites, Sauvignon Blanc, Sherry, and rosé just to name a few.  That reason is acidity.  At its very basic level, acidity makes your mouth water, which makes you want to eat.  When it comes to pairing with food, wines higher in acid allow for more versatility and more options.  They can match citrus flavors and vinaigrettes, balance the richness of creamy sauces, soups, and cheese, cleanse the palate when paired with fatty or fried foods, hold their own with high acid foods like green apples and tomatoes, and provide the best partner for things that are difficult to pair like asparagus and artichoke.  There are many high acid white wines out there, but not so many reds.

Fewer Stains

Drinking white wine means fewer wine stains on your clothes, your carpet, and your teeth.  Who isn’t in favor of that?

Reduce Headaches

For those who experience wine-induced headaches not caused by excess consumption, choosing white wine may mean enduring fewer of them.  While there are no comprehensive studies on this topic, doctors overwhelmingly agree that wine headaches are not caused by sulfites.  Sulfites, typically present at higher levels in white than in red, cause a severe asthmatic reaction in those who have sulfite allergy, but they are not believed to trigger headaches.  While there are many theories on what does, the one that seems to have the most traction in the scientific community is that wine headaches are somehow associated with tannin.  Good news for white wine drinkers as whites are far lower in tannin than reds.

Red is Still an Option

Many white wines are made from red grapes.  Rosés are the obvious example and are made from pretty much any red grape you can think of.  I’ve also tasted a number of traditional still whites made from red grapes from Oregon, California, and Germany in the last couple of years.  The most successful of these, in my opinion, were made from Pinot Noir.  It’s a great new way to experience an old favorite.  And then there’s Champagne.  Two of the three traditional Champagne grapes are red (Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) but all Champagne is in the white wine family.

Because…Champagne

If you don’t drink white you can’t drink Champagne, and that would be a tragedy.

The Final Pitch

While there are unquestionably some amazing red wines out there, and I have been very lucky to taste more than a few, for me the most exciting, memorable, and astonishing wines I’ve experienced have overwhelmingly been white.  The best are rich without being weighty, light without sacrificing texture, lit from within by acidity, and anchored by a striking depth of flavor. They have a stunning, almost crystalline purity; a complexity that invites quiet discovery, like turning pages in a book.  The best whites are every complementary opposite – familiar memories and new adventures in a single sip.  They have made me a believer in the great power of subtlety. I hope they’ll make you one, too.